Bright unusual betta fish swimming around ornamental glass bowls have become a very fashionable choice of pet for the home. It can be argued that they rival even the humble goldfish in status. People's inquisitiveness for these strange fish doesn't stop with the family home, but you'll also find betta fish bowls on show in restaurants, company offices and also on tabletops at wedding receptions. Betta fish are truly a robust and adaptable fish that can accept water and tank conditions that the majority of other fish cannot. However, keeping fighting fish in little bowls or glass jars will not permit them to thrive, nor will they be content fish. Unless special attention is given to their surroundings and requirements, they will become stressed, resulting in bad health and regret for the owner.
So what special consideration should they be given? Before I answer that question let's understand a little about the background of the betta fish.
Bettas are native to tropical Asia where they thrive in shallow warm waters, regularly being found in muddy rice paddy ponds. Having a unique labyrinth organ found on the very top of their head allows them to stay alive in this oxygen starved environment. Their labyrinth organ permits them to extract oxygen from the air and they do this by merely raising their head to the surface of the water. That is why you'll often see betta fish hanging motionless at the water surface.
Although bettas are quite accomplished at living in little bowls or containers, they do prefer a larger oxygenated tank to live in. A tank range of between three to five gallons minimum is my advice. Fit it with a small filter… this will not only clean the tank of organic waste material, but also oxygenate your betta fish's water.
Smaller tanks, or betta fish bowls, need daily water maintenance, especially if the container has no filter! All fish produce waste, along with left behind food, this builds up in the tank and slowly rots. As a result of this rotting organic waste, nitrate and nitrite levels in the water will increase. Nitrite is particularly deadly to fish and if not extracted from the water, will result in your betta dying. Too many fish enthusiasts overlook nitrate because their betta bowl appears clear and clean. Don't be fooled by this, as nitrite is difficult to identify by plainly looking into your tank. By the time it becomes visually obvious it will often be too late for your betta fish. Betta fish keepers must test their betta's water weekly for nitrite levels and make daily water changes (changing up to a third of the bowls water volume). This monitoring and maintenance can be greatly lessened by having a larger tank with a filter.
When releasing your betta fish to its new fish tank or making water changes, it is very important that the water is free from chlorine and that it is cycled. In an idyllic water environment, wastes are broken down by bacteria into nitrates and nitrites and then additional beneficial bacteria will feed off these, keeping the water in equilibrium.
When adding new dechlorinated water to your tank, the new water will not contain established colonies of beneficial bacteria. This can result in rapid imbalances if fish are introduced too quickly. Water should be added and permitted to cycle in the aquarium for at least a week before releasing your betta fish. To hurry this process up you could introduce a cup of water full of useful bacteria from an existing aquarium or even outside pond to the new betta tank. These beneficial bacteria like to set up themselves in the filter and won't be prolific in tanks without one.
Now that you understand why bettas do best in larger filtered fish aquariums, let's turn our attention to temperature. Being a truly tropical fish, betta fish do require warm temperatures of about 78-80 degrees Fahrenheit. They can endure cooler temperatures, but bettas won't be content nor will they flourish. What betta fish won't tolerate though, is a fluctuating water temperature. Little betta bowls or jars, to a great extent, change in temperatures from day to night. These fluctuations will stress your fish resulting in sickness. Betta aquariums should have a heater with a thermostat installed to maintain the water temperature keeping it steady and warm. Placing your betta in sunlight to warm it up, or by using an external heater will not be adequate, and in fact could cause greater fluctuations in temperature.
Water pH is a less significant concern for betta fish hobbyists. Bettas will tolerate a wide pH range, so long as it remains stable and does not overly fluctuate. Like an erratic water temperature, a fluctuating pH will put stress on your betta.
Fish enthusiasts like to be able to view their beautiful betta fish and will sometimes, naively, leave their bowls or aquariums empty of plants or hiding spots. Betta fish, (just like us), like to be able to disappear from peering eyes at times. By having nowhere to hide, they will feel susceptible to predators and bright light, which will again put pressure on them.
When looking for decorations and plants for their tank, it is best to choose living plants as these assist with the cycling of the water. Sharp edged plastic plants and ornaments can catch on the betta fish's fins, ending up with tears and infection. Floating plants will filter light and offer a structure for when your betta fish wants to construct a bubble nest.
Lastly, betta fish are renowned for leaping, especially during the night. A cover for your betta fish's tank is very important if you want your betta fish to remaining his tank. A leaping fish in a lidless container will, without a doubt, end up dead!
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